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Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 concluded on September 27, 2026, closing a season marked by sheer fabrics and warm-weather styling. Key moments included Glenn Martens’ final Diesel show, Sunnei’s Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo debuting at Moschino, and Demna’s second physical Gucci outing.
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 has officially wrapped, closing a season defined by lightness, sheer layering and bright color across the city’s runways, Hypebae reports. The week’s biggest moments included Glenn Martens’ farewell show at Diesel after six years as creative lead, the debut of Sunnei founders Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo at Moschino, and Demna’s second physical show for Gucci, staged as a fully functioning brand store.
At Diesel, Martens used his final collection as an “ode to pleasure,” delivering what Hypebae described as a show that “couldn’t be more Diesel if it tried.” The finale became a full-body experience: Martens enlisted Marseille-based artist collective (LA)HORDE and placed 200 performers among the audience, who broke into synchronized movement before the show closed. Martens had recently announced his departure from the brand after six years.
Prada‘s SS27 collection, designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, centered on a single garment: the skirt. Reimagined with crystal embroideries, decorative crinoline layers and organza outer shells, the skirt was styled against thick sweaters, structured shirts and bra tops to show how pairings change the perception of an outfit.
Moschino welcomed Messina and Rizzo — the duo behind Sunnei — as its new creative directors, with a debut show that brought 400 real-life commuters onto the runway alongside models. Gucci‘s Demna staged his sophomore physical show, titled “The Shop,” as an active brand store with shifting weather effects and bossa nova soundtracks, featuring squarer silhouettes, raised layered collars and oversized metal horsebit accents. Fendi‘s second collection under Maria Grazia Chiuri moved from delicate lace undergarments to costume-style looks inspired by Raffaella Carrà, with the audience facing a mirrored box set referencing Luciano Fabro’s artwork Cubo di specchi.
Why These Shows Set the Season’s Tone
The week carries weight beyond individual collections because it marks a cluster of creative leadership transitions at major Italian houses. Martens’ exit closes a six-year chapter that reshaped Diesel’s identity, while the Moschino debut offers the first concrete signal of where that brand is headed under Messina and Rizzo. Demna’s and Chiuri’s second outings at Gucci and Fendi respectively are early evidence of whether their first-season statements were course-setting or one-off gestures.
The season also reflected broader conditions in fashion: Sportmax explicitly designed an ultra-lightweight, semi-translucent wardrobe in response to intense global heatwaves, and sheer layers appeared across multiple runways. Designers are increasingly building collections for warmer real-world conditions rather than treating summer as pure fantasy.
Commercial signals were visible too. Footwear collaborations continued to multiply, including Blumarine’s crystal-caged UGG clogs, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Havaianas flip-flops and Dhruv Kapoor’s new PUMA x RCB capsule — a signal that accessible brand partnerships remain a priority even among luxury players.
A Week of Transitions and Warm-Weather Design
Milan’s SS27 season balanced the scale of its largest luxury houses against a calendar increasingly filled with smaller, more intimate presentations, according to Hypebae. The reporting noted a lightness across the season tied to the heat, with sheer layers and bright pops of color recurring on runways throughout the week.
Several designers carried forward ongoing narratives. Louise Trotter’s third Bottega Veneta collection presented warm-weather floral motifs staged against crushed cardboard seating. The Attico marked its 10th anniversary with a show that left its bags open for guests to peer inside. Dhruv Kapoor continued an exploration begun with last season’s “transit” theme, presenting a collection titled “PRESENCE” that merged floating and fitted silhouettes and drew on “the ease of Indian dressing,” reworking lungi, vests and sari silhouettes.
MM6 Maison Margiela took a playful deconstructionist approach — jackets worn as skirts, buttoned shirts as dresses — alongside its Havaianas collaboration, which Hypebae called “probably-now-viral.” The week followed London Fashion Week SS27 earlier in the month.
“Glenn Martens said goodbye to Diesel after six years as its creative lead with a show turned into a full-body experience courtesy of (LA)HORDE and 200 performers hidden among the audience.”
— Hypebae
What Hypebae’s Picks Leave Open
This recap reflects one outlet’s editorial selection of favorite shows rather than an industry-wide consensus, and Hypebae’s Moschino section was cut off mid-sentence in the published report, leaving details of that debut collection’s clothing incomplete. Commercial performance, buyer orders and retail reception for SS27 collections are not yet known and typically surface in the weeks after the shows.
It also remains unclear where Glenn Martens will go next following his announced Diesel departure, and who will succeed him at the brand. Neither question was answered during the week’s proceedings.
The Fashion Calendar Moves to Paris
Attention shifts to Paris Fashion Week SS27, the next stop on the women’s ready-to-wear calendar, where additional debuts and major house shows are expected. In the coming months, observers will watch for announcements about Martens’ next role and Diesel’s successor, early reactions to the Moschino debut from buyers and press, and whether the season’s sheer, heat-responsive styling translates into commercial orders when SS27 deliveries reach stores.
Key Questions
When did Milan Fashion Week SS27 end?
The week officially wrapped on September 27, 2026, according to Hypebae’s recap.
Why was Diesel’s show significant?
It was Glenn Martens’ final collection as Diesel’s creative director after six years. The show closed with a performance by artist collective (LA)HORDE involving 200 performers seated in the audience.
Who are Moschino’s new creative directors?
Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, founders of the label Sunnei, made their Moschino debut this season with a show featuring 400 real-life commuters walking the runway.
What was the main theme of the SS27 season in Milan?
Lightness: sheer layers, bright color and warm-weather dressing appeared across runways, with Sportmax designing explicitly in response to intense global heatwaves.
Which footwear collaborations debuted at Milan Fashion Week SS27?
Notable debuts included Blumarine’s crystal-caged UGG clogs, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Havaianas flip-flops and Dhruv Kapoor’s PUMA x RCB capsule.
Source: rss
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