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Laura and Deanna Fanning say Kiko Kostadinov womenswear’s spring/summer 2027 collection will pursue a cleaner, more graphic direction. The designers discussed the shift and their work together in an interview with ELLE ahead of the label’s October 5 Paris Fashion Week show; the collection’s full details were not yet available in the report.
Designers Laura and Deanna Fanning say the next Kiko Kostadinov womenswear collection will take a cleaner, more graphic direction, offering an early indication of the label’s spring/summer 2027 work ahead of its scheduled Paris Fashion Week show on October 5. In an interview with ELLE, the sisters described a change in emphasis after recent seasons that explored silhouette and transparency.
“So far, we feel like the collection is looking very clean, very graphic,” Deanna Fanning told ELLE while the pair were finishing the collection in their London studio. She added that the direction reflects their own idea of minimalism, which may not appear minimal to other viewers. The report did not provide a full look at the collection or specify how many pieces it would include.
The Fannings lead the label’s womenswear, which began in 2018, two years after Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov founded the London-based brand as a menswear label. The sisters, graduates of Central Saint Martins, have worked together throughout their careers. Deanna said she focuses on knitwear, while Laura described her specialty as silhouette; both cited textiles, color and accessories as central to their work.
The ELLE report also described looks from the label’s fall/winter 2026 runway, including a bomber jacket with modernist, triangular epaulets and a V-neck cardigan maxi dress with detachable oversize sleeves. Those examples illustrate the label’s use of unusual construction and historical references, but they are from a previous collection, not confirmed details of the spring/summer 2027 show.
A New Direction for the Womenswear Line
The preview signals a change in emphasis for a line known for combining utility, unusual shapes and science-fiction references. The designers say recent seasons gave them room to develop silhouettes and explore transparency; for spring/summer 2027, they want more directness. That may help explain how the label is evolving while keeping its distinctive approach to clothing.
The report characterizes the womenswear as having a following among artists and intellectuals who are open to clothes outside familiar conventions. That description is ELLE’s account, rather than a measured audience survey. The label’s work also reaches shoppers through collaborations, including footwear projects with ASICS, though the article does not announce a new partnership.
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How the Fannings Shaped Womenswear
Kostadinov established his namesake label in 2016 as a menswear brand. Laura and Deanna Fanning joined two years later to develop the womenswear line, drawing, according to the report, on their graduate collections. The sisters described a close working relationship and complementary design interests: knitwear and silhouette, alongside shared attention to textiles, color and accessories.
Their references include childhood experiences in Australia, where school uniforms contributed to Laura’s interest in footwear, and Italian craftsmanship, which they encountered through clothes and shoes sent by their grandparents. The designers have also cited utility and science fiction as influences. For the upcoming collection, they studied work by visual artist Nanda Vigo, whose ambient works used light to define space; the sisters said they wanted to reinterpret that idea on the body.
What the Preview Leaves Open
The report offers the designers’ early description, not a complete account of the spring/summer 2027 collection. Its full lineup, materials, retail plans and pricing were not specified. The article refers to an October 5 show but does not state the year in the supplied source material, so the date’s year cannot be confirmed from that report alone.
It is also not yet clear how the stated interest in directness will translate into individual garments, or whether the collection will continue the label’s familiar mix of utility and futuristic references. Those points may become clearer when the collection is presented.
The October 5 Runway Show
The next reported milestone is the label’s scheduled Paris Fashion Week show on October 5. The runway presentation should provide the first fuller view of how Laura and Deanna Fanning have translated their cleaner, more graphic brief into clothes. Until then, the designers’ ELLE interview is the main source for the collection’s direction.
Key Questions
What did the designers say about the spring/summer 2027 collection?
Laura and Deanna Fanning described it as cleaner and more graphic than their recent work, while acknowledging that their version of minimalism may still look unconventional to others.
When is the Kiko Kostadinov show?
The ELLE report says the show was scheduled for October 5 during Paris Fashion Week. The supplied report does not specify the year.
Who designs Kiko Kostadinov womenswear?
Laura and Deanna Fanning lead the womenswear line, launched in 2018, two years after Kiko Kostadinov founded the label as a menswear brand.
What is known about the new collection’s clothes?
The designers gave an early description of the collection’s direction and said they had studied visual artist Nanda Vigo. The report does not disclose a complete lineup or confirm specific garments for the spring/summer 2027 show.
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